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The New York Times has a lengthy article on the slow, subtle
scientific legitimization of the low-carbohydrate diet.

These researchers point out that there are plenty of reasons to suggest
that the low-fat-is-good-health hypothesis has now effectively failed
the test of time. In particular, that we are in the midst of an obesity
epidemic that started around the early 1980’s, and that this was
coincident with the rise of the low-fat dogma. (Type 2 diabetes, the
most common form of the disease, also rose significantly through this
period.) They say that low-fat weight-loss diets have proved in clinical
trials and real life to be dismal failures, and that on top of it all,
the percentage of fat in the American diet has been decreasing for two
decades. Our cholesterol levels have been declining, and we have been
smoking less, and yet the incidence of heart disease has not declined as
would be expected. ”That is very disconcerting,” Willett says. ”It
suggests that something else bad is happening.”